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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.